The SJX Podcast

Episode 50 of the SJX Podcast rounds up recent reviews, including a review of a new book about Universal Genève chronographs, and the latest updates to long-running platforms from Breguet and Patek Philippe.

The discussion also explores the intensifying competitive landscape in high-end watchmaking as big brands like Patek Philippe, Breguet, and A. Lange & Söhne close the gap with many artisanal independent brands in terms of finishing and execution.

Show notes:

00:30: Universal People Universal Dreams by Luca Mignini
03:47: Breguet Classique Tourbillon Sidéral ref. 7255PT
10:10: Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 5227G
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Ahead of Geneva Watch Days, which will feature 71 (mostly independent) brands in 2026, episode 49 of the SJX Podcast looks back at how independent watchmaking became the phenomenon it is today. SJX and Brandon trace its evolution from 1970s pioneers like George Daniels and F.P. Journe through the arrival of Daniel Roth, Philippe Dufour, and Franck Muller. The conversation also examines the avant-garde boom of the 2000s, the renewed emphasis on traditional finishing, and the role of digital photography and social media in transforming what was once a solitary pursuit into a global collector community.

Listeners can sign up for the SJX Newsletter by August 12, 2026 for a chance to win a Habring² Chrono-Felix Medicus.

Show notes:

00:23: Habring² Chrono-Felix Medicus giveaway
02:25: Geneva Watch Days 2026 preview and origins
04:00: The pioneers of independent watchmaking
10:00: The 2000s wave and the influence of the Philippe Dufour Simplicity
12:09: Survivorship bias, changing tastes, and returning makers
14:03: Post-Covid independents, specialist suppliers, and social media
18:43: Predictions for what comes next
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As Swiss watchmakers prepare for their summer holidays, episode 48 of the SJX Podcast rounds up some of the best summer-ready watches released in the first half of 2026, spanning nearly every price category.

Show notes:

00:40: Kollokium Projekt 2 Variant C
01:34: Baltic Heures du Monde
02:10: Seiko Prospex Marinemaster HBF001
03:40: Seiko 5 Sports HUF Limited Edition
04:25: Tudor Black Bay Chrono 39 “Bumblebee”
05:56: TAG Heuer Carrera Seafarer
07:16: Hermès Cape Cod Titanium
09:15: Grand Seiko Spring Drive UFA Ushio 300 Diver
10:20: Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time "Cardinal Points"
12:15: Laurent Ferrier Sport Traveller
14:10: Greubel Forsey Balancier 3
15:48: Rolex gem-set Daytona quartet
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The return of the Vacheron Constantin Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar got us thinking about other technically interesting watches that showed promise but never truly found their footing.

In episode 47 of the SJX Podcast, SJX and Brandon discuss recent releases from Seiko, IWC, and Swatch before turning to candidates for a second chance, including the Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars AP Escapement, the TAG Heuer Monaco V4, and the elusive Breguet Hommage à Nicolas G. Hayek 7887.

Show notes:

00:30: Seiko Star Time for Shohei Ohtani
02:37: IWC ProSet Perpetual Calendar
07:35: Swatch x Omega MoonSwatch Mission to the Moon 1969
12:18: Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars AP Escapement
14:10: TAG Heuer Monaco V4
16:15: TAG Heuer high-frequency chronographs
18:15: Louis Vuitton Tambour Twin Chrono and Audemars Piguet Michael Schumacher Laptimer
20:23: Breguet Hommage à Nicolas G. Hayek ref. 7887
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In episode 46 of the SJX Podcast, Brandon and SJX examine the Swiss watch industry's June export figures, which confirm the strength of the American market and reveal the impact of the Royal Pop.

The episode also explores Rolex’s unexpected activity in clockmaking, beginning with the brand's patents for a traditional inclined-plane clock that was hiding in plain sight at Watches & Wonders. We also share impressions of the Rolex Submariner Desk Clock released late last year — a conservative-looking but impressively constructed object powered by an unusually sophisticated quartz movement.

Show notes:

00:35: Analysis of June data for Swiss watch exports
05:20: Rolex inclined-plane clock
09:30: Rolex Submariner Desk Clock
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