Blamo!

Masaharu “Masa” Wada of Hodinkee Japan joins Jeremy in Tokyo to talk watches, Japanese taste, and finding your people.
Masa shares how a watch blog led him out of tech and into Hodinkee Japan, why Japan’s best shops have such a distinct point of view, and what makes independent watchmakers like Naoya Hida, Kikuchi Nakagawa, and Otsuka Lotec so compelling.
They also discuss appreciating watches you’ll never own, getting past the obsession with in-house movements, and the trouble with selling a watch once it has a story.
Plus, his grandfather’s Rolex, a trip to Zurich, and how collecting brought Masa closer to his dad.

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Patreon Preview from Blamo!

This week on Die, Workwear!, Derek and Peter are joined by Erik Ford, co-founder of Buck Mason.
Since launching in 2013, Buck Mason has grown from a small Los Angeles brand selling t-shirts and jeans into one of the more recognizable names in American menswear. It's also a brand that's frequently discussed in our Slack and, at times, something of a lightning rod in menswear circles.
Erik is a serious clothing enthusiast, with an appreciation for vintage garments, American manufacturing, and the small details that make good clothes great. That obsession has taken Buck Mason from studying old t-shirts and denim to taking over a historic knitting factory in Pennsylvania.
The gents discuss Buck Mason's early days, why so many heritage brands have lost their way, the challenges of manufacturing in America, and what it takes to grow a clothing company while maintaining creative control.
They also get into California style, private equity, and the surprisingly complicated business of making a really good t-shirt.



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Patreon Preview from Blamo!

Derek and Peter sit down with Ryan Devens of San Francisco’s Tailor’s Keep to talk about what actually goes into making a bespoke suit.
Ryan explains how Tailor’s Keep developed its house cut, why fitting forward shoulders can require rebuilding an armhole and sleeve, and where the limits of made-to-measure end and bespoke begins. They also get into the realities of garment manufacturing today: why Tailor’s Keep moved its made-to-measure production from the United States to Asia, the difference between Chinese and Indian manufacturing, and why rebuilding a skilled tailoring industry in America is much harder than simply opening a factory.
They also discuss the post-pandemic return of tailoring, why clients are getting interested in craft again, the mistakes Ryan has made after more than a decade of fitting different bodies, and the fabrics he reaches for when making everything from summer suits to winter trousers and overcoats.
Plus: four-inch Ralph Lauren ties, pants splitting at weddings, Gap jeans, alligator longwings, and the problem with trying to automate craft.

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Listen to the FULL episode on the Blamo! Patreon



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Writer Jerry Stahl joins Jeremy to talk about his new book, Gonzo Neurotic: The Best (and Not So Best) of Jerry Stahl a collection of work spanning decades of journalism, profiles, and cultural misadventures.
Jerry talks about revisiting his younger self, getting people off script, interviewing everyone from Mickey Rourke to Samuel L. Jackson, and what years of rejection, success, and failure have taught him about making a creative life work.
They also get into meeting your heroes, getting fired from Twin Peaks, comparing yourself to more successful friends, Marc Maron’s jeans, Larry David, Thom Yorke, and the records Jerry never gets tired of.

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Nate Sloan and Charlie Harding are the co-hosts of Switched on Pop, the acclaimed podcast that breaks down the making and meaning of popular music.
They join Jeremy to talk about the relationship between music and style, why we instinctively know what a “rock star” looks like, and how rebellion, authenticity, and a little bit of careful manufacturing create the people we think of as effortlessly cool.
They get into The Beatles, Bob Dylan, Weezer, punk and hardcore’s influence on menswear, John Mayer and Visvim, Trey Anastasio’s style evolution, the strange similarities between guitar pedals and fashion, and why developing taste might ultimately be an act of curation.
Plus: Irish penny whistles, Patagonia Baggies, and the eternal question of whether any of us actually need another navy jacket (always).
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Sponsored by Bezel - the trusted marketplace for buying and selling your next luxury watch

Hosted by Simplecast, an AdsWizz company. See pcm.adswizz.com for information about our collection and use of personal data for advertising.