Blamo!

Derek Guy and Peter Zottolo return for the third installment of their quarterly AMA series, generously sponsored by our friends at Bezel.

This time, they go deep on fabric: navy sport coats, green double-breasted suits, the five tweeds they would choose from scratch, and the right cloth for a balmacaan. They also revisit bespoke mistakes, the tailors still on their wish lists, shoes for serious walking, the difference between personal style and costume, and what actually reads from across the room.

Plus: date-night clothes without tailoring, keeping pet hair off your wardrobe, finding occasions to wear the clothes you already own, the appeal of authentic workwear, their favorite versions of menswear staples, and why the person you imagine in the mirror may not be the person everyone else sees. They close by designing the elusive middle-ground jacket—dressier than a chore coat, easier than a sport coat, and made for the romantic life of a writer.

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Fabric Recommendations

Navy Sport Coat

Derek’s Picks:

Holland & Sherry Mesh & Hopsack Blazers

Huddersfield or Smiths Mock Leno

Harrison Spring Ram stitched hopsack

Holland & Sherry cashmere doeskin

Hainsworth doeskin

Fox serge

Peter’s Picks:

Hopsack or similar Spring Ram 16oz for fall/winter or Finmeresco 12oz for summer, I have experience with Moorhouse and while it’s much softer it’s too prone to fraying

Green double-breasted suit in the South

Derek’s Picks:

Harrisons Spring Ram

Huddersfield Fine Worsted Super Gaberdine

Peter’s Picks:

Spring Ram 12oz if you can stand it, or Isca 8oz if you can’t. Bear in mind that Isca is 55/45 linen/wool so it won’t be as crisp as Spring Ram. If you want a stiffer suit try Cape Kid 60/40 wool-mohair

Five Tweeds

Derek’s Picks

Brown Molloy & Sons Donegal (or Holland & Sherry for something softer)

Gray glen check Fox tweed

Something brown from W. Bill like a basic glen check or gun club

Lovat Kirkton 523

Lovat Kirkton 502

Peter’s Picks:

For sportcoats, I prefer softer tweeds (Shetland, lambswool, even hairy faux tweeds such as Moonbeam or Sherry Tweed) as opposed to stiff & scratchy (Harris, gamekeeper, Hartwist, Thornproof).

Porter & Harding Glenroyal True POW

Brown, Dark Brown, Green & Tan Dogtooth

Brown with green & red check

W Bill Grey shetland herringbone

Holland & Sherry Sherry Tweed either Brown w/hazelnut/blue check or Brown w/chestnut/blue mock glen check

Balmacaan to wear with jeans

Derek’s Picks:

W. Bill Classic Coatings

Marling & Evans undyed wool (or this check)

VBC Hope and Archive Overcoat

Holland & Sherry overcoat

Lovat Ettrick (as seen at Paul Stuart Japan)

Harrisons cashmere overcoating

Peter’s Picks

W.Bill Classic Coatings or Irish Donegal

Lint Brushes

Article at Put This On

Best Of

M43 is vintage

Chore coat was Jack/Knife (RIP) – hand-hammered rivets and leather backs, single stitching everywhere, perfect fit, until you grow out of it

OCBD is Kamakura – replication of old BB and good fabrics

Chino - I only have one pair from Buck Mason, the paperback

Jeans are either Strike Gold 5103 slub jean ( crazy fades) or Buck Mason Full Saddle

Tees are Buck Mason Field Spec

Chambray shirt is Brycelands USN Perfect chambray shirt

Western shirt is Stevenson Overall Co Cody

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Ian Ousley joins Jeremy from Madrid for a conversation about clothes, acting, and the long process of becoming yourself.

Ian talks about relocating to Vancouver to film Avatar: The Last Airbender, how the city’s weather and retail scene changed the way he dressed, and what he learned shopping for archive fashion in Tokyo. Plus,  stories about Raf Simons, Ann Demeulemeester, a nearly 15-pound Panasonic camera jacket, the Rolling Dub Trio boots he waited all day to buy, and the era when a bright red Supreme beanie felt essential.

They also trace Ian’s path from wholesale vintage and his former LA shop, KALÓ SOIL. They dig into how taste and skill develop at different speeds, and what every artist has to make first.

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Sondre Lerche has been writing songs for most of his life. He released his debut Faces Down more than two decades ago, and somehow, eleven albums later, he’s still finding ways to make the whole thing feel new.

We talk about his new record Acrobats, spending years rewriting a single song, falling in love in a world that can make happiness feel almost irresponsible, and what performing 130 shows of *Moulin Rouge!* taught him about singing, acting, and pushing himself somewhere completely unfamiliar.

We also get into getting older, vanity, learning to let go of how other people see you, his lifelong style obsession, the influence of A-ha’s Morten Harket, vintage clothes, Ralph Lauren, and why some of his earliest songs are harder for him to revisit than others.

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John Darnielle is the songwriter, author, and frontman of The Mountain Goats, one of the most influential independent bands of the past three decades.

What began as Darnielle recording songs on a Panasonic boombox in the early '90s has grown into a beloved catalog spanning more than 20 albums, earning a devoted following for its literary songwriting and deeply human stories.

John joins me to talk about the band's new album, Days, and why he's finally allowing himself to look back on a career that's always been focused on what's next. We get into aging without becoming nostalgic, why every act of creation is ultimately hopeful, and what it means to see your own life—and your parents' lives—with fresh eyes.

We also chat about Randy Newman, the bands that shaped him, grief, faith, songwriting, influence versus imitation, and why the days really are short.

Listen to Days

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Patreon Preview from Blamo!

The Wardrobe Budget series reaches its completely reasonable and financially responsible conclusion: What would we buy if we had $50,000 to rebuild our wardrobes from scratch? Yes, 50K. (You asked for it!)

Peter and Derek use the fantasy budget to talk about the clothes they love most, from exceptional outerwear and bespoke tailoring to workwear, shoes, and accessories.

Before that, they consider Emily Segal’s concept of “tasteslop” and whether good taste can exist without cultural context. They close with a new round of tailoring, footwear, photography, and other recent discoveries in Hey, Nice Pants.

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Listen to the FULL episode on the Blamo! Patreon 

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