reading rocks

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There can’t be another short walk in the country where you can search out the fossil plants and animals from hundreds of millions of years ago including the oldest recorded amphibian footprints, walk across evidence of ancient earthquakes, touch rocks that were once 1200° molten magma and see the debris left by the last ice sheet to cover England, stroll past the site of a 10,000 year old Stone Age house, search out the tree stumps of a drowned forest where those Mesolithic people hunted, gaze at reefs that wrecked over 20 ships, look enviably of the bathing house built by a Prime Minister who invented a different cup of tea, smell kippers been smoked and all the time be surrounded by amazing wildlife.

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This the final part of this rail journey from close to the west coast of England to the east coast, starts in Hexham and finishes in Newcastle upon Tyne. On the way there's a little discussion about geological maps and their availability and accuracy. But mainly we'll be looking at the geology and landscape - the river deposits and the valley - the challenge such valley routes present to engineers and the coal that was is important to not only the economy of this line - but also to the invention of railways themselves.

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We got as far as Brampton station last time. We have changed bedrock from the red Triassic sandstones of the west to 335 to 310 million year old Carboniferous strata – a repeating mix of layers of sandstone, shale, limestone and coal. A product of different past environments when the tectonic plate we were part of was on the Equator.  
Back then the land and sea kept changing places. Shallow coral seas produced the limestones, when sea level fell the environment became brackish coastal muddy lagoons – laying down the shales, which were then covered by sand from large rivers – the sandstones, and in turn they were covered by vegetation and swamps – ultimately decaying and compacting to form coal seams.  
That repeating sequence of rocks – initially with more marine deposits like limestone and as we get closer to Newcastle – more land deposits like sand, mud and coal – is the story of the Carboniferous. Not that we will see much of it directly, this rail journey takes us through a landscape who’s shape and sediments owes most to that last glaciation, its melting and the action of rivers and gravity since.

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Our journey starts in Carlisle and heads east. In a nutshell in terms of bedrock geology we begin on rock that is around 250 million years old from the Triassic period and as we head eastward travel over progressively older rocks crossing into 330 million year old Carboniferous strata around Brampton Station. 
Then we are on Carboniferous all the way to Newcastle – and once we get past Ovingham we start to cross younger Carboniferous rocks with many coal seams. That’s the bedrock geology – and natural rock outcrops are something we will rarely see – the biggest impact on the landscape we will travel through and most other northern landscapes are much younger deposits from the last glacial period 20000 years ago and the even younger river deposits that cover the glacial debris in the valleys. But that is more than enough of a preamble – time to head into Carlisle Citadel Station.

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Welcome to the most remote and wildest part of our region. It’s a place where the skies are darker and the stars shine brighter. Where ospreys feel safe enough to hunt and nest. Where red squirrels, goshawks and pine martens all feel at home and where other long disappeared species may soon be encouraged to make a comeback. Its Kielder’s landscape that makes that possible and it is its rocks that are the literal foundation of that.
This is a stunning place, one with a fascinating future and an amazing geological past. 
I’m hoping this podcast – and the accompanying booklet – will want to make you hike to these places, bike to them, or ride to them. You will visit some of the most out-of-the-way places in England and help you discover just how different our past and its environments have been.