This week on The Business of Watches, we're in Hölstein, Switzerland, near Basel, at the peach-rose colored headquarters of Oris to talk to Rolf Studer, the brand's Chief Executive Officer. One of the 50 largest Swiss brands by sales, Oris is a true independent, making mechanical watches at fair prices, conveying the brand's unique spirit.
Its history dates back to 1904, with boom times in the 1960s that were kick-started by the tireless legal and lobbying work of Dr. Rolf Portmann, an Oris executive (and honorary chairman today), whose efforts led to overturning the Swiss Watch Statute in 1966 that had prevented Oris and many other brands from using Swiss lever escapements in their watch movements.
Some 60 years later, Oris is marking that milestone with its Star Edition, an updated version of the Star, the first Oris watch to use a Swiss lever escapement after the law was changed. Portmann and Ulrich Herzog (now the Chairman) went on to lead a management buyout of Oris in 1982, which solidified the company's position as an independent brand.
Studer, who has been co-CEO since 2016 and was appointed CEO last month, discusses Oris' positioning and strategy in the current market, where the strong Swiss franc is challenging it and fellow watchmakers. Oris has responded with models that not only offer value to customers but also draw on its storied history and the unique community culture it has fostered. Studer makes the case for why crafted mechanical objects like a Swiss-made watch can deliver the satisfaction and joy that come only from a considered, well-made product, and for how Oris remains committed to making watches and operating in ways that continually express its considered, deeply held values.
But first, Hodinkee editor TanTan Wang pops in to talk about Oris and give a brief debrief from Watches and Wonders, noting some of the highlights from the industry's biggest and most important gathering, including offerings from Chopard and Cartier.
Show Notes
1:45 Photo Report The Sights, Watches, And Style Of Watches & Wonders 2026
2:14 Business News: Watches And Wonders Attendance Climbs Despite Geo-Politics And Economic Challenges As Brands Make Case For Value
2:30 Cartier Celebrates 10 Editions of Privé With Six New Editions
3:42 Introducing: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Cardinal Points
3:49 Hands-On: The Chopard L.U.C 1860 In Aeruse Blue
4:43 Introducing: Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronograph Mystérieux 'Mineral Blue' Reinvents The Central-Counter Chronograph
7:50 Introducing: Oris Star Edition Celebrates A Turning Point In The Brand's History
11:38 Introducing: The Oris Artelier Complication, A Dress Watch Redesigned For A New Generation
16:04 In-Depth: A Visit to Hölstein, The City That Oris Built
19:31 Waldenburg, Switzerland (Wikipedia)
22:19 The Swiss Watch Statute And Dr. Ralph Portmann (Oris)
34:18 Oris and independence with the Bullseye Big Crown Pointer Date(Instagram)
37:11 Prices, Volumes, And Passion: The Business Of Watches In 2025 And What To Expect In 2026
37:40 Oris Calibre 400
39:08 Swiss franc x USD
40:15 The Swiss - Artisans of Time (Swiss Confederation)
42:42 ASUAG (Wikipedia)
43:04 Oris History including ownership changes (Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry)
55:49 The Oris Yangtze Jiangtun Limited Edition
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