Wowie! So many excellent fragrances to get your noses around in this episode, it was difficult to know where to begin. But with so many to explore we started with a recap of the recent barnstorming success of Barnes Fragrance Fair...
We talked through Suzy’s choices for her sold-out talk with Alice du Parcq (and if you couldn’t go or were there but missed any of the talks: never fear! They were all recorded and will be on the Barnes Fragrance Fair YouTube channel when they’re all edited. We’ll let you know when they’re up, but meanwhile you can watch last year’s talks there, including the ‘Top of the morning’ show we so loved doing.)
Suzy chose:
Shloksha Soapy Heart
Based in Tunbridge Wells, founder Jay says “Moving from India to the UK in my
twenties, I do miss the immersive sensory joys found in everyday Indian culture.
Sourcing and working with traditional Indian materials connects me to my
childhood—scented trips down memory lane!”
Opening notes - red mandarin and grapefruit
Heart notes - jasmine, ylang ylang, green grass and saffron
Base notes – sandalwood, fruity musk, oudh
“You slip on your fine silk robe, gorgeously patterned with tropical birds, and
quietly pad along the hallway to the bathroom. Closing the heavy wooden door
with a sigh of relief, you lean over the sparkling slipper bath, slide the plug in
and turn both taps on full. Glittering beads of water dance in the diffuse light.
You perch your hip on the side of the bath as your ears fill pleasantly with the
roar and tumble of the cascading water. Your life is very busy and demanding,
and you get few opportunities to indulge yourself. But a long, quiet bath is often
what you crave.
Your eyes glance along the rich turquoise tiled shelf as you ponder how to scent
your watery sanctuary. Antique crystal jars hold delicately fragrant floral
salts—you carefully lift their lids- one by one - and their enchanting perfumes
mingle with the steam. But they’re perhaps not exactly what you’re in the mood
for.A waxed paper tablet of old-fashioned, handmade soap sits demurely at the
end of the shelf. Fresh, brand new and unopened. Your fingertips softly caress
the crackling paper as you carefully unwrap it and the dense, creamy pebble
drops into your silken lap.
You dip your hands briefly in the warm bath water and rotate the smooth soap in
your hands. Rich suds fly into the air, dense but light. Airy and iridescent. Yes,
this is what you were looking for.”
Jorum Studio Risso
‘An independent fragrance brand founded in Scotland in 2019 led by Scottish
perfumer Euan McCall. Jorum creates modern, poetic fragrances that capture the
beauty of nature with an unconventional spirit. Designing and manufacturing all
products in-house, Jorum Studio celebrates the craft of perfumery using only the
purest quality materials in truly unique and creative ways.’ (Based in Edinburgh,
now with a store in London, too.)
‘Impression
Douglas fir, Pear, Cypress, Mastic, Petitgrain, Bigarade, Carrot, Angelica seed.
Fade
Nerium Oleander, Pearwood, Olive, Neroli, Orange Flower absolute, Ambrette
seed.
‘Sculptural sunbeams filter through the breaks in gauzy linen, air is cool,
carrying the bittersweet embrace of seasonal citrus and the brightness of soap
on fabric and skin. Crisp, clean and radiant. Risso awakens with the cool
ambience of majestic Douglas Fir and bracing Cypress oils, evoking the hush of
dawn. Pear and Bigarade bring bright clarity, where expressive citrus meets
delicious soft-fruit sweetness. The centrepiece: a gilded rush of vibrant Neroli
and delicate Orange Flower Absolute, bringing a fusion of enduring luminosity.’
NEUNÉRE When All Things Were Divine
Founded in London 2025 by Alina Rosu. Her path led her from the foundational
discipline of the Grasse Institute of Perfumery to a Master's degree in Fragrance
Formulation. Alina says: “We live in the moment, just not this one. This perfume
is about the bittersweet nature of nostalgia.”
‘It opens with crisp notes of cut grass and green tea, followed by the bitterness
of Galbanum Oil. The heart is a soft infusion of Orris Butter and Orange Blossom
Absolute. It settles into a dry-down of honey and Benzoin from Laos, contrasted
by mossy notes.
Featuring: cut grass, watery notes, green tea, galbanum resinoid, orange flower
absolute, orris root butter, philadelphus/mock orange, honey, benzoin siam
resinoid, moss, Ambrofix™’
To the Fairest Cécile
Cécile, entwines luminous bergamot and mandarin with powdery softness atop
the warmth of amber and a tingle of clove bud, the rose rippled through with an
airy creaminess that wafts beguilingly.
Top Notes: bergamot, mandarin
Heart Notes: rose absolute
Base Notes: amber, clove bud
Suzy especially loves the matching fragrantly nourishing Satin Body Oil spray –
one of THE best you’ll ever try, no matter which scent you choose, and you could
easily wear any of them instead of a fragrance! Made using organic argan oil
extract, this quick-drying formula leaves skin luminous and delicately scented.
Beaufort London Fathom V Director’s Cut
To commemorate a decade of Fathom V we have produced a limited edition
‘Directors Cut’ EXTRAIT version of the scent: the ‘big green beast’ reimagined in
an ultra-strong variant at a 150% higher oil inclusion. This ‘extended’ version
brings to life the more muted aspects of the original and is incredibly powerful
and extremely long-lasting.
Each all-black bottle is individually numbered, with the edition running to only
1000 pieces worldwide. Each box contains a hand-signed note of authenticity.
Top Notes: Juniper, Blackcurrant, Green Leaves, Aquatic
Crisp green cut stem brightness open, darkened with earth.
Heart Notes: Lily, Jasmine, Cumin
Lush white flowers bloom at the heart.
Base Notes: Vetiver, Moss, Salt, Atlas Cedar
Salted woods, moss and vetiver leave a deep mineral resonance.
Perfumer: Julie Marlowe
Rather greedily, Suzy really wanted to choose Maya Njie Aethi Opum because
she’s been utterly obsessed with it since smelling Jo’s bottle, but Alice had
chosen that. AND she wanted to choose Olfiction ICONIC, but Alice had chosen
that, too. So... they compromised and both spoke about those incredible scents.
We’ll discuss them properly on the pod when the talks are up (and when Nicola’s
had a chance to get her nose on them.)
Nicola’s been falling in love with wearing Juliette Has a Gun Not a Perfume all
over again, for its pleasing, easy-to-wear character when worn alone, and for its
ability to coax beguiling intricacies from other scents while also boosting their
longevity.
Another new launch Suzy’s obsessed by is Essential Parfums Ambre Latte
by Jordi Fernández
“I envisioned Ambre Latte as a highly addictive overdose of my favourite amber
woods wrapped in a delicious swirl of almond milk. Infused with caramel, tonka,
vanilla, and benzoin, this creamy haze lends the amber structure an irresistible
and unforgettable signature. A fragrance that draws you in… and keeps you
close."
‘With Ambre Latte, Jordi Fernandez offers a unique and exquisitely refined take
on indulgence. The fragrance unfolds in a vaporous cloud of almond milk,
delicately infused with roasted tonka bean. Indulgence settles in — irresistible
yet perfectly controlled — as a luscious dulce de leche caramel melts into the
enveloping softness of vanilla, benzoin and white musks.
Very soon, the fragrance reveals its duality. Beneath the milky caress emerges
an intensely addictive woody-amber alchemy. Ambrofix, Georgywood,
Akigalawood and white sandalwood structure the composition, infusing it with
depth, sophistication and modernity. They extend the trail with sensual richness,
leaving an unforgettable imprint — the perfect balance between gourmandise
and addiction.’
Escentric Molecules Cologne One
Suzy described this as feeling like a Cologne that’s been whizzed up in a Soda
Stream machine! The brand says: ‘Cologne One captures the freshness of a gin
and tonic in a single, sparkling gesture: effervescent, bright, unmistakably clean.
The fragrance lives in its top notes: juniper for the gin, lime and citrus for lift, a
touch of bergamot and mandarin, a whisper of ginger for a delicate spiciness,
and a hint of cucumber’s neutrality to enhance the crispness without becoming
literal. It is freshness concentrated, transparent, and immediate.
The heart remains understated: iris, rose, and hedione offer just enough
structure to support the top note, allowing the bright citrus and juniper to linger.
The dry down is linear, calm, and unobtrusive: Ambroxan, Iso E Super, and a
trace of musk. Nothing competes, nothing distracts.
“We have a very different approach to fragrance, so our first cologne captures
the very unique and wonderful freshness of a gin and tonic. I think it's quite new
with that sort of freshness. It's the idea of the sparkling, effervescent gin and
tonic first scent, this sort of your nose in the drink,” says perfumer Geza Schoen.
Cologne One is a cologne reimagined by Escentric Molecules: 15% concentration
for lasting freshness without leaving an overwhelmingly fragrant impression. It is
refreshing, refined, and gender-neutral....
UK