After Hours Skin Clinic

Dry hands are not just a winter problem and if your skin is cracking, stinging or constantly flaring, there is usually more going on than “just dryness.”

In this episode of the After Hours Skin Clinic, Dr Emma Craythorne and Dr Ellie Rashid unpack the different types of hand dermatitis, why some people are genetically prone to eczema, and how everyday habits like over-washing, wet work and even handling receipts can quietly damage the skin barrier.

They explain the difference between atopic eczema, irritant dermatitis, allergic contact dermatitis and pompholyx eczema, including the hidden allergens that can keep hand eczema going for years without people realising it.

They explore:

Who is especially vulnerable to hand eczema

The role of filaggrin and skin barrier dysfunction

Why soap can make eczema dramatically worse

How patch testing works and why it can completely change treatment outcomes

The surprising reason some steroid creams can worsen eczema

The best soap substitutes and moisturisers for dry, damaged hands

How to protect hands properly with gloves and overnight treatments

New prescription treatments for chronic hand eczema now available through specialist dermatology clinics

There are also practical recommendations throughout the episode, including favourite dermatologist-approved hand creams, cleansers and barrier repair strategies that can genuinely improve painful fissures and chronic dryness.

Products mentioned include:

Dermol 500

Aveeno Hand Ointment

CeraVe Healing Ointment

La Roche-Posay Cicaplast Hands

O’Keeffe’s Working Hands

If your hands are persistently dry, cracked, itchy or inflamed - especially if treatments never seem to fully work - this episode explains what might be missing.

Follow & Connect with us ⬇️

YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/@AfterHoursSkinClinic 

Instagram: ⁠@afterhoursskinclinic⁠

Email: ⁠[email protected]⁠

Producer: Ella Blaxill

Exec: Eve Streeter

Music by Simon Elms.

This is a Raconteur Studios Production.
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Are you over-exfoliating your skin without realising it?

In this episode, consultant dermatologists Dr Ellie Rashid and Dr Emma Craythorne explain what exfoliation actually does, how to get glowing skin safely, and why so many people damage their skin barrier chasing “glass skin”.

They cover:

The difference between chemical and physical exfoliation

Why sensitive skin can react badly to exfoliants

The real reason exfoliation increases sun sensitivity

The best exfoliants for acne, dull skin and ageing skin

Why retinoids often outperform scrubs and acids

The truth about dermaplaning and whether hair grows back thicker

Hidden exfoliants in skincare, including pineapple and papaya enzymes

How to protect your skin barrier while still getting glowing skin

If you want evidence-based skincare, honest dermatologist advice, and real answers about acne, pigmentation, ageing and skin health, this is the podcast for you.

Follow & Connect with us ⬇️

YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/@AfterHoursSkinClinic 

Instagram: ⁠@afterhoursskinclinic⁠

Email: ⁠[email protected]⁠

Producer: Ella Blaxill

Exec: Eve Streeter

Music by Simon Elms.

This is a Raconteur Studios Production.
Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices

Why does your ponytail suddenly feel thinner? Why does your parting look wider in photos? And why are so many women told that hair thinning is “just part of ageing” ... with very little guidance on what to do next?

In this episode of the After Hours Skin Clinic , consultant dermatologists Dr Emma Craythorne and Dr Ellie Rashid unpack the science, myths and emotional reality of female pattern hair loss.

From hormonal shifts and nutritional deficiencies to stress, postpartum shedding and scalp inflammation, they explain why female hair thinning is often misunderstood and why early diagnosis matters more than most people realise.

Expect evidence-based advice, practical treatment insights, and a few unexpectedly funny moments involving ketoconazole shampoo and a very confused patient.

Inside this episode:

What female pattern hair loss actually is (and why it’s different from male pattern baldness)

The signs dermatologists look for during scalp examination and trichoscopy

Why hair loss in women is often dismissed for too long

The role of hormones, genetics, thyroid health, stress and menopause

Iron, ferritin, zinc and vitamin D: the blood tests that really matter

Why “hair vitamins” aren’t always the answer

How dandruff and seborrhoeic dermatitis can affect scalp health and hair growth

The truth about minoxidil, including the “dread shed”

Oral minoxidil, spironolactone, finasteride and other medical treatments

PRP, microneedling, laser-assisted delivery and LED helmets, what does the evidence actually say?

Why postpartum hair shedding can sometimes uncover underlying female pattern hair loss

When thinning hair could signal something more serious

This episode is for anyone who has ever looked at their hairbrush, widened parting or thinning ponytail and wondered: is this normal and what can I do about it?

Follow & Connect with us ⬇️

YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/@AfterHoursSkinClinic 

Instagram: ⁠@afterhoursskinclinic⁠

Email: ⁠[email protected]⁠

Producer: Ella Blaxill

Exec: Eve Streeter

Music by Simon Elms.

This is a Raconteur Studios Production.
Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices

Are retinoids ruining your skin, or transforming it?

From viral misinformation to real clinical evidence, this episode tackles the biggest retinoid myths, like whether they thin your skin or cause inflammation.

Consultant dermatologists Dr Emma Craythorne and Dr Ellie Rashid give you a step-by-step guide to using prescription retinoids safely and effectively.

What You’ll Learn in This Episode:

Do retinoids thin the skin? (Spoiler: no. This episode covers what they actually do)

The difference between retinol vs prescription retinoids like tretinoin and adapalene

Why retinoids are the gold standard for anti-ageing and acne

What “retinization” and retinoid dermatitis really looks like

How to manage:

What purging is (and how long it lasts)

Why your skin might react differently in cold UK weather

The biggest skincare mistake: combining retinoids with exfoliating acids

Why SPF is essential when using retinoids

How to Use Retinoids (Dermatologist-Approved Routine)

A step-by-step approach to minimise irritation:

Apply to dry skin (wait 20–30 minutes after washing)

Avoid sensitive areas (corners of nose, mouth, eyes)

Start slowly and build consistency

Use the “moisturiser sandwich” technique if needed

Try short-contact therapy for sensitive skin

Keep your routine simple—avoid over-exfoliating

Retinoid Side Effects Explained

Retinoid dermatitis: dry, red, flaky patches (often around nose/mouth)
Purging: temporary breakouts as skin turnover increases
Sensitivity changes due to environment, illness, or product changes

Products mentioned:

La Roche-Posay Lipikar Baume AP+M

La Roche-Posay Cicaplast Baume B5

Avène Cicalfate Restorative Protective Cream

Peptide-based moisturisers (barrier-supporting)

Hydrocolloid spot patches (zit stickers)

Niacinamide (around 4%) serums

⁠Klira⁠ - Founded by Dr Emma Craythorne, Klira is a bespoke luxury skincare formula prescribed by dermatologists. You may hear it mentioned from time to time on the podcast and if you want to find out more head over to ⁠klira.skin⁠

Follow & Connect with us ⬇️

YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/@AfterHoursSkinClinic 

Instagram: ⁠@afterhoursskinclinic⁠

Email: ⁠[email protected]⁠

Send in your questions!

Producer: Ella Blaxill

Exec: Eve Streeter

Music by Simon Elms.

This is a Raconteur Studios Production.
Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices

In this episode of the After Hours Skin Clinic consultant dermatologists Dr Emma Craythorne and Dr Ellie Rashid tell us absolutely everything we need to know about shampoo and what it is doing to our scalps.

They answer all our most-asked questions on choosing the right shampoo and preventing and fixing scalp issues, as well as how to avoid over-spending. This includes:

What is a shampoo and what is it made of?

What are the main ingredients in shampoo? 

Should you trust shampoos that contain ingredients like argan oil, naiacinimide, caffeine or hyaluronic acid? 

Marketing tricks that shampoo manufacturers use 

What the thickness of your shampoo actually means

What you should know if you have a sensitive scalp (SLS warning, eczema and psoriasis)

Pacifying agents…what are they and what do they do to your shampoo?

How does the pearlesence, color and texture of shampoo actually impact its effectiveness?

Which medicated shampoos are best (Nizoral 2% Keotconical shampoo)?

How to deal with dandruff scale and itch (including amazing studies that show promising results)

Top tips for protecting your hair and scalp when using strong ingredients

How the temperature of your shower affects your hair

What everyone should know about the 'No-Poo’ movement (aka hair training)

Products mentioned:

Head & Shoulders Classic Clean Shampoo

Nizoral Anti Dandruff Shampoo 2% Ketoconazole  

Sam McKnight Shampoo 

Pureology Hydrate Shampoo 

Send in your questions! [email protected]

Watch us on YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/@AfterHoursSkinClinic

Follow & Connect with us on socials ⬇️

Instagram: ⁠@afterhoursskinclinic⁠

Producer: Ella Blaxill

Exec: Eve Streeter

Music by Simon Elms.

This is a Raconteur Studios Production.
Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices