After Hours Skin Clinic

This episode covers the science behind pores, oil production, blackheads, sebaceous filaments, ageing, UV damage and acne. Consultant dermatologists Dr Emma Craythorne and Dr Ellie Rashid share practical, evidence-based advice to help you focus on healthier, more resilient skin rather than chasing “poreless” perfection.

Emma and Ellie cut through the misinformation around pores. From pore-shrinking serums, blackhead extraction tools and nose strips to viral skincare hacks, they explain what pores actually are, why they can look more visible, and what really helps improve pore appearance and skin texture.

This episode covers:


Why everyone has pores and why you can’t shrink, open or close them


What actually makes pores look larger, including oil production, acne scarring, ageing and sun damage

How filters, lighting and magnifying mirrors distort how we see our skin


Sebaceous filaments vs blackheads - what’s normal and what isn’t

Why pore strips and extraction tools offer only short-term results and may even be damaging your pores

Ingredients that can help improve the appearance of pores over time: Salicylic acid, retinoids (including tretinoin), niacinamide

The role of collagen loss in visible pores

Prescription ingredients that can help reduce the appearance of pores (Spironolactone, tretinoin)

In-clinic treatments that may help selected patients (Botulinum toxin, lasers)

Why consistency and patience matter more than quick fixes

Have any questions? Send them over to [email protected] 

Find us on Instagram @AfterHoursSkinClinic

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This podcast is for informational purposes only and does not replace medical advice. Always consult your healthcare professional before making changes to your treatment.

Producer: Ella Blaxill

Series Editor: Eve Streeter

Music by Simon Elms.

This is a Raconteur Studios Production.
Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices

What skincare trends are actually worth paying attention to in 2026 and which ones should be left behind in 2025? In this episode of After Hours Skin Clinic, Consultant Dermatologists Dr Emma Craythorne and Dr Ellie Rashid break down the biggest skincare trends of 2026 through an expert, evidence-based lens.

From AI skin analysis and “longevity skincare” to barrier-focused routines, antioxidants, peptides, polynucleotides (PDRN), lactic acid, and hyaluronic acid, they explain what’s backed by real science, what’s still emerging, and what’s mostly marketing noise. You’ll hear why skin barrier first skincare is firmly here to stay, why fewer steps may be better than more, and how to critically appraise skincare trends before spending your money.

This episode is about cutting through the noise, understanding ingredients properly, and focusing on what genuinely supports long-term skin health…not just what’s trending on social media.

As always, this podcast is for informational purposes only and does not replace medical advice.

Products mentioned: 

The Klira Nighttime Special

SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic

Medik8 Advanced Liquid Peptides

Medik8 Peptide Cream

Ameliorate (lactic acid products for keratosis pilaris)

Aveeno Very Dry Skin Ointment 

CeraVe Healing Ointment

Klira - Founded by Dr Emma Craythorne, Klira is a bespoke luxury skincare formula prescribed by dermatologists. You may hear it mentioned from time to time on the podcast and if you want to find out more head over to klira.skin

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Have any questions? Send them over to [email protected] 

Find us on Instagram @AfterHoursSkinClinic

_____

Producer: Ella Blaxill

Series Editor: Eve Streeter

Music by Simon Elms.

This is a Raconteur Studios Production.
Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices

Our skin barrier is the foundation for great skin health. However, it's so easy to damage or compromise it with overly complicated routines, product overuse and ingredient misuse. This episode is all about understanding, fixing, maintaining and protecting your skin barrier.

Consultant dermatologists Dr Emma Craythorne and Dr Ellie Rashid explain the key mistakes we all make from overusing exfoliating acids and misusing retinoids to choosing the wrong cleansers and moisturisers.

They also share practical, science-backed tips and dermatologist-recommended products to help restore barrier function and keep skin comfortable long-term.

This episode covers:

What the skin barrier actually is (and why it’s not “just dead skin”)

Why cold weather, wind, heating and lifestyle stress damage the skin barrier

How over-exfoliation and product overload can cause irritation

The link between barrier damage and acne, rosacea, eczema and sensitivity

Signs your skin barrier is compromised (tightness, stinging, redness, flaking)

Why less is often more when repairing the skin barrier

How cleansers can either protect or strip the skin

The importance of moisturising at the right time

How humectants, emollients and occlusives work together

How to safely recover from retinoid-induced irritation

Post-procedure skin barrier repair tips

Products mentioned:

Avène Cicalfate+ Restorative Protective Cream

Avène Tolerance Cleanser

Cetaphil Gentle Cleanser

SkinCeuticals Epidermal Repair

This episode includes a paid partnership with Avène. We only collaborate with brands we genuinely rate and would recommend in clinic regardless of sponsorship. All views shared are our own and based on clinical experience and published evidence.

Disclaimer: This podcast is for informational and educational purposes only and does not replace personalised medical advice. Always consult your healthcare professional before making changes to your skincare or treatment plan.

Have any questions? Send them over to [email protected] 

Find us on Instagram @AfterHoursSkinClinic

_____

Producer: Ella Blaxill

Series Editor: Eve Streeter

Music by Simon Elms.

This is a Raconteur Studios Production.
Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices

Antioxidants are everywhere in skincare but few ingredients are as well-studied, misunderstood, or overcomplicated as vitamin C.

In this episode of the After Hours Skin Clinic, consultant dermatologists Dr Emma Craythorne and Dr Ellie Rashid revisit one of our most requested topics: topical vitamin C. They break down the science behind how vitamin C works on the skin, what benefits are genuinely evidence-based, and how to use it properly for maximum results.

From collagen production and pigmentation to oxidative stress and UV protection, this episode explains why vitamin C remains the gold-standard antioxidant in dermatology and why drinking it is not the same as applying it to your skin.

This episode also covers:

What antioxidants actually do at a cellular level

Why vitamin C is different from other antioxidants

The only form of vitamin C supported by strong clinical evidence

Ideal strength, formulation, and pH for effectiveness

Why vitamin C should only be used in the morning

Common formulation mistakes that make vitamin C ineffective

How packaging, expiry dates, and stability affect results

Which skin types benefit most and who should be cautious

If you’ve ever wondered whether vitamin C is worth the investment, how to choose the right one, or why some formulas work and others don’t, this episode gives you clear, practical, science-backed answers.

Products mentioned: 

Skinceuticals C E Ferulic 

Skinceuticals Silymarin CF Serum For Blemish Prone Skin 

Skinceuticals Phloretin CF Gel For Skin Discolouration

As always, this podcast is for educational purposes and does not replace personalised medical advice.

Klira - Founded by Dr Emma Craythorne, Klira is a bespoke luxury skincare formula prescribed by dermatologists. You may hear it mentioned from time to time on the podcast and if you want to find out more head over to klira.skin

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Have any questions? Send them over to [email protected] 

Find us on Instagram @AfterHoursSkinClinic

_____

Producer: Ella Blaxill

Series Editor: Eve Streeter

Music by Simon Elms.

This is a Raconteur Studios Production.
Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices

Do you really need a night cream…or is it just clever marketing? Here’s your evidence-based, dermatologically approved answer (it’s more interesting than you might think).

In this episode of After the Hours Skin Clinic, Consultant Dermatologists Dr Emma Craythorne and Dr Ellie Rashid reveal what our skin is actually doing while we sleep and why nighttime is a critical window for skin repair, barrier recovery, and long-term skin health.

Emma and Ellie explain how our skin behaves differently at night compared to the day, and how aligning your skincare routine with these natural processes can significantly improve results.

You’ll learn:

What happens to your skin overnight (and why it matters more than you might think)

How the circadian rhythm controls skin repair, inflammation, and cell turnover

Why skin loses more water at night and how to prevent water-loss

Which ingredients work best at night, including retinoids, niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, emollients, and occlusives

Why vitamin C should generally be avoided at nighttime and used in the morning

How melatonin supports overnight skin repair

The real evidence behind peptides and where they sit compared to retinoids

How to build a night routine that supports barrier health without overcomplicating things

The episode also breaks down the confusing world of retinoids. From tretinoin to retinol and retinal, explaining what actually works, what’s less potent, and how to use these ingredients safely and effectively.

This episode includes a paid partnership with Avène, featuring discussion of the Avène Hyaluron Activ B3 Multi-Intensive Night Cream, a product the hosts genuinely rate for its evidence-based formulation.

…If you’ve ever wondered whether night creams are necessary, which ingredients matter most for your night time routine, or how to make your skincare products work harder while you sleep, this episode will give you clarity  without myths, fear-mongering, or hype.

Products mentioned: 

Avène Hyaluron Activ B3 Multi-Intensive Night Cream

Medik8 Advanced Liquid Peptides

The Klira Special

Klira - Founded by Dr Emma Craythorne, Klira is a bespoke luxury skincare formula prescribed by dermatologists. You may hear it mentioned from time to time on the podcast and if you want to find out more head over to klira.skin

_____

Have any questions? Send them over to [email protected] 

Find us on Instagram @AfterHoursSkinClinic

_____

Producer: Ella Blaxill

Series Editor: Eve Streeter

Music by Simon Elms.

This is a Raconteur Studios Production.
Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices